Lukten av svette: luktutvikling i ulike tekstiler

ingridha på 24. oktober 2011

Marit Kjeldsberg, Kjersti Eilertsen, Madeline Buck & Ingun Grimstad Klepp

Sammendrag

Det er utviklet en metode for å samle opp svette og bedømme lukt i tekstilprøver for å undersøke hvordan forskjellige materialer lukter etter bruk, lufting og vask. Følgende tester er også utført: Varevekt metode i henhold til standard NS-EN 12127:1997. Vannopptaksprosent i henhold til modifisert metode basert på standard NF G 07- 166: 1993. 13 ulike tekstiler delt inn i kategoriene antilukt, ull, bomull og syntetisk ble testet. Alle tekstilene ble vasket fem ganger før testing. Videre ble effekten av tøymyker på lukt undersøkt. Prøvene ble evaluert av et forbrukerpanel med 12 SIFO ansatte. Resulatene er basert på vel 3200 observasjoner og beregningene er utført ved hjelp av Exel og SPSS. Testen ble utført i samarbeid med Myren Sportssenter i tidsrommet 12.-26. september 2011.

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Potential of Woolen Materials in Health Care

ingridha på 28. juni 2011

Kirsi Laitala, Ingun Grimstad Klepp, Marit Kjeldsberg & Kjersti Eilertsen

Paper

Abstract

Woolen textiles may have more potential use areas within the health care than what they are used for today. They have many benefits such as being self-extinguishing, flexible, and having high isolation as well as moisture absorption properties. While absorbing moisture it releases heat, and as the evaporation rate is slow, woolen materials do not give a rapid chill that some other faster drying materials have. Therefore wool can hold lot of moisture before feeling wet. Due to wool’s potential to shrink in wash, the challenge has been how to wash wool to get it clean enough for health care use. Laboratory experiments were designed in order to see woolens’ tolerance to different washing treatments, as well as their properties related to soil repellence and stain removal.


The results showed that wool tolerates to be cooked without causing additional felting shrinkage, as well as spin dried at high velocity (at least 1400 rpm), as long as there is no mechanical action that could cause the fibers to get entangled. Therefore, the acceleration and slowing-down phases of spin-drying program have to be rapid, so that the centrifugal forces will keep the garments trapped in place against the walls of the drum. Especially untreated woolen fabrics showed good soil repellence against water based soils, as the outer layer of woolen materials is hydrophobic. However, if the staining occurred it was more difficult to get wool clean than synthetic fabrics. Cotton got even more soiling, but it tolerates more efficient washing and detergents than wool does. Wool has potential to replace some of the materials that are more commonly used in health care today, such as cotton, polyester and polyamide, and improve the use properties without compromising the hygiene. The frequent washing of textiles cause wear and tear, creates extra work as well as environmental consequences. Woolen products are washed less frequently than products mare of other fibers. Therefore, an increase in the use of wool can be a way to reduce washing frequency.

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Potential for environmental improvements in laundering

ingridha på 14. februar 2011

Kirsi Laitala, Casper Boks & Ingun Grimstad Klepp

Sammendrag

Life cycle assessment studies on clothes, detergents and washing machines show that the use period is usually the most energy-demanding period during these products’ life cycle, even higher than production or transportation phases. Laundering practices are constantly changing and influenced by social, cultural and moral norms. Even though the technologies in clothes cleaning have improved greatly, the length of time that consumers use for washing clothes has not been reduced. We own more clothing and wash it more frequently. This increased amount of washing counteracts the technological improvements in laundry.

This paper discussed the options of changing consumer habits in clothing maintenance to a more environmentally friendly direction and attempts to evaluate which changes would be the most feasible and efficient. Laboratory trial results on washing were compared with earlier research on consumers’ washing habits. Laboratory-based tests measuring cleaning effect, energy and water consumption were performed in order to evaluate the consequences of changing the washing temperature, filling grade, detergent dosage or drying method. The cleaning effect tests showed that today’s detergents are suitable for low temperature washing, and by selecting an efficient detergent, the cleaning result can be better at 30°C than with a less efficient detergent at 40°C. When washing only slightly soiled textiles or small loads of laundry, the detergent amount can be reduced. Many textiles changed more in colour or strength if they were washed at higher temperature(60°C) than at lower temperature (40°C or below). Tumble-dried textiles shrank more than line dried. These facts can be used to motivate consumers to change behaviour in order to reduce the environmental impacts of textile maintenance.

Click here to read the full article (wiley.com)

Fra rent til nyvasket: Skittent og rent tøy

lisbethl på 5. juni 2003

Ingun Grimstad Klepp

Summary

This report is an enquiry into why we wash clothes. What is it we expect when we place clothes in the washing machine? The most immediate reply must be that we want to have clean clothes. This is certainly part of the answer. But this alone does not explain either why we wash more than ever, or the manner in which we wash – and neither does it explain what is implied in the concept of ‘clean’. So what is ‘clean’ when “There is no such thing as absolute dirt” (Douglas 1997).

The material used to answer this question is drawn from various types of literature: handbooks, textbooks, surveys of washing customs, and guides on how to wash clothes. Another important source is the questionnaires sent out by Norwegian Ethnographic Surveys. A central assumption in answering this question is to look at what has been washed. Previously, washing clothes has been studied as a change in technology and time-use. But dirty and clean clothes have not formed part of these studies – with one exception: Eilert Sundt’s book on cleanliness in Norway. For this reason, the following report commences with a history of soiled clothes! Here, we trace the history of different types of dirty linen from Sundt’s study of Norway in the 1860s until the present day.

The report has given an answer to why we wash clothes, but it has not answered the question why it is we women who continue to undertake this task. The project From clean to newly-washed has not yet been completed. In subsequent work we will investigate why clothes-washing is one of the most women-dominated areas within the housework arena.

This article is written in Norwegian and you will find a link to it below.

Sammendrag

Rapporten undersøker hvorfor vi vasker. Hva ønsker vi å oppnå ved å legge tøyet i vaskemaskinen? Det mest nærliggende svaret er at vi ønsker å få tøyet rent. Og sikkert er dette en del av svaret. Men det forklarer verken at vi vasker mer enn før, eller at vi vasker annerledes – og det forklarer slett ikke hva som ligger i begrepet rent. For hva er rent når, som Mary Douglas uttrykte det, «there is no such thing as absolute dirt» (Douglas 1997:2).

Det materialet som brukes for å besvare spørsmålet er ulike typer litteratur: skikk og bruk- bøker, lærebøker, vaskevaneundersøkelser og litteratur med råd for klesvask. En annen viktig kilde er spørrelister sendt ut av Norsk Etnologisk Granskning (NEG). En helt sentral forutsetning for å svare på spørsmålet er å se på hva vi har vasket. Klesvask har tidligere vært studert som endringer i teknologi og tidsbruk. De skitne og rene klærne er ikke skrevet inn i denne historien, med ett unntak; Eilert Sundts bok om renslighetsstellet i Norge (Sundt 1975). Derfor starter rapporten med en skittentøyshistorie. I den forfølger vi ulike tekstiler som skittentøy fra hans beskrivelser av Norge på 1860-tallet og frem til i dag.

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