Onsdagsdebatt: Brukte klær, til hvilken pris? – Samfundet.no

Lisbeth Løvbak Berg on 30. oktober 2024

Debatt
Samfundet, Trondheim

De siste årene har bruktmarkedet fått mye positiv oppmerksomhet. Å handle brukt er bra for både miljøet, lommeboken og sikrer deg unike klær og gjenstander. I hele Norge har bedrifter som Fretex og UFF fått en større tilstedeværelse i handlegater, og på sosiale medier florerer det av påvirkere som taler for å handle brukt framfor å kjøpe nytt. Samtidig har flere av de store kjedene innenfor gjenbruk fått kritikk for å ha høye priser, for å videreselge klær av dårlig kvalitet og det er en skepsis rundt hvor stor andel av klærne som faktisk ender opp i en butikk i forhold til hva som blir sendt til søppelfyllinger.

I lys av dette er det interessant å debattere om bruktmarkedet utelukkende er positivt. Er det egentlig mer miljøvennlig, eller er det overkonsumering i ny forkledning? Bruker vi bruktmarkedet som en unnskyldning for å fortsette kjøpevanene våre? Å handle brukt har for mange vært nødvendig for å få endene til å møtes økonomisk; har bruktmarkedets prisøkning ført til at markedet har blitt mindre tilgjengelig?

Panelet består av:

Frida Nilsen, fremtiden i våre hender
Lisbeth Løvbak Berg, Klesforsker ved OsloMet
Tommy Eriksen, daglig leder i Gjenbruken
Geir Arne Bals, kundeansvarlig Fretex Midt og Nord-Norge

Dørene åpner 18:45, og arrangementet holdes i Skala. Arrangementet er gratis.

Møtet streames på Samfundets YouTube-kanal her (youtube.com). Møtet blir også lastet opp i sin helhet på YouTube-kanalen i etterkant.

Lenken til arrangementet finner du her (samfundet.no).

Motivations for and against second-hand clothing acquisition

Lisbeth Løvbak Berg on 1. juni 2018

Kirsi Laitala and Ingun Grimstad Klepp

Abstract

One of the possibilities consumers have for more sustainable clothing acquisition is to select pre-owned products. This article explores consumers’ motivations for clothing reuse: why they choose or do not choose to acquire second-hand clothing. First, a taxonomy of motivation categories based on previous studies is presented. This demonstrates that similar properties can be used as arguments both for and against acquisition of second-hand clothing. An analysis of a representative sample of Norwegian consumers shows that both environmental and economic reasons are important for those who take part in informal clothing circulation. Uniqueness and style are more important for those who buy second-hand clothing.

Those who do not take part in any of the forms of acquisition of used clothing, use vague and open justifications, as well as contextual aspects; hygiene, health and intimacy. Previous studies have mostly been based on how clothing is reused as part of a market exchange, and therefore the motives have been embedded with a rational choice understanding of consumption. Studies of the private exchange of clothing should also address additional reasons such as routinized practices and established rituals, family ties, feelings, friendship and love. The article concludes with an invitation for further research to explore several possible motivations that are more relevant for private circulation of clothes.

Click here to read the full article (ingentaconnect.com).

Clothing Reuse: The Potential in Informal Exchange

Lisbeth Løvbak Berg on 1. mars 2017

Kirsi Laitala and Ingun Grimstad Klepp

Abstract

Reuse organised by non-profit and commercial actors is a strategy that recently received a lot of attention. This article discusses the question: what do we know about the amount of clothes that circulate outside the pecuniary markets? And is this amount increasing or declining? The questions are answered based on quantitative material from Norway. Almost twice as many had received used clothing as those who had bought used clothing, and our material do not indicate that this are declining. At the same time 59 per cent of Norwegian adults had neither received nor bought used clothing for themselves during the past two years. For children, inheritance is very common and the younger the children are, the more they inherit. The amount of the private clothing exchange is greater than the formal market in Norway. Therefore, when the goal is a more sustainable clothing consumption we need to include the parts of consumption that are not only related to money.

Click here to read the full article (oda.oslomet.no).