Ull og kjøtt fra sau: forbrukernes vurderinger og forståelser

Forfattere: Hanne Torjusen og Gunnar Vittersø, Forbruksforskningsinstituttet SIFO, OsloMet.

Innledning

Mennesker har i uminnelige tider høstet ressurser fra utmarka, og beitedyr som rein, sau og geit har gitt ull, skinn og kjøtt. Men beitebruket har gjennomgått store endringer i de siste hundre årene. Med markedsøkonomiens inntog har beitedyrenes status endret seg fra å bli betraktet som husdyr som dekker våre grunnleggende behov til å bli råvarer for matindustrien med økonomisk avkastning som det primære målet. Det har medført store endringer i hvordan utmarka brukes og forvaltes og har fått betydelige økonomiske og miljømessige konsekvenser. Utmarka har vist seg sårbar og det er reist spørsmål ved saueholdets påvirkning på klima og dyrevelferd. I det offentlige og politiske ordskiftet snakkes det om å styrke beitedyrenes rolle. Det pekes blant annet på at sauen utnytter grasressurser som ellers ikke ville være tilgjengelige og at saueholdet er viktig i et selvforsynings- og matberedskapsperspektiv. Beitebrukets betydning for biologisk mangfold og vedlikeholdet av kulturlandskapet løftes også fram i den offentlige debatten.[1] Men hvordan forholder forbrukerne seg til disse spørsmålene?  I hvilken grad er forbrukere opptatt av produktenes opprinnelse, hvordan de er produsert og hva saueholdet betyr i en ressurs- og forvaltningssammenheng?

Denne artikkelen belyser forbrukernes kunnskap og holdninger til produkter fra utmarka basert på data fra en spørreundersøkelse i et representativt utvalg av den norske befolkningen samt fokusgruppesamtaler med forbrukere. Analysene tar utgangspunkt i Kopytoffs (1986) begrep om kommodifisering, det vil si hvordan en ting transformeres fra en ressurs eller råvare til en forbruksvare for salg i et marked. I tråd med dette perspektivet vil vi sammenligne ulla og kjøttets «sosiale liv», for å utforske hvordan disse produktene oppfattes og behandles i de ulike sfærene produktene beveger seg i fra råvare via foredling, markedsføring og fram til at forbrukeren anskaffer og tar i bruk produktet.[2] Vi har valgt å studere ull- og kjøttvarer da dette er produkter de fleste har et forhold til i eget hverdagsliv. Vi vil se nærmere på hvilke faktorer som påvirker forbrukeres oppfatninger og holdninger til disse produktene og om det er noen forskjeller mellom ull og kjøtt.  

Les resten av artikkelen her: https://tenkmat.no/vitenskapelige-artikler/fersk-forskning-ull-og-kjott-fra-sau-forbrukernes-vurderinger-og-forstaelser/

Ut i naturen uten plast: Klær for lek og naturopplevelse

Forfattere: Ingun Grimstad Klepp og Lisbeth Løvbak Berg

Sammendrag

Det meste av friluftslivsklær er laget av plast. Dette notatet oppsummerer og reflekterer over feltarbeid med barnefamilier for å teste ut friluftsliv uten plast og designprosesser for å lage friluftslivsklær uten plast. Arbeidet er gjort sammen med ULU of Norway, et garveri spesialisert i naturgarving, som også arbeider med naturopplevelser og klær for dette. Det ble designet speiderkapper for barn og benklær for voksne.

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Fra avfall til ressurs: Ny verdikjede for overskuddstekstiler fra møbelproduksjon

Forfattere: Lisbeth Løvbak Berg, Anna Schytte Sigaard og Jorun Pedersen

Sammendrag

Dette notatet er et resultat av en kartlegging av overskuddsmaterialer av hud og tekstil (heretter tekstil) fra den norske møbelbransjen og mulighetene for å utnytte disse i en distribuert industriell verdikjede for lokalproduksjon av tekstilprodukter hos norske arbeidsinkluderingsbedrifter. Resultatene viser at møbelbedrifter i Norge genererer anslagsvis 294 tonn overskuddstekstiler per år som de ønsker at skal utnyttes bedre. Resultatene viser også at det er mulig og ønskelig for arbeidsinkluderingsbedrifter å bli en del av en verdikjede for utnyttelse av disse tekstilene på flere måter, men peker på forskjellige hensyn som må tas, bl.a. i forhold til planlegging for å muliggjøre innlæring av oppgaver og tid til produksjon og økonomisk risiko ved å omlegge drift.

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More than enough clothes: a social practice-oriented study of gender and clothing accumulation

Author: Vilde Haugrønning

Abstract

Despite the growing volumes of clothing in wardrobes, the drivers of accumulation remain poorly understood and are often explained through fashion cycles or replacement needs. This article explores clothing accumulation from a practice-oriented perspective, examining how demand emerges through the interrelation of materials and social practices, with particular attention to gender dynamics. Drawing on a wardrobe study with 15 women and 15 men in Norway, it analyses how garments are acquired and disposed of in response to shifting practice demands, ideals of being well-dressed, and everyday dressing negotiations. Findings show that, on average, women acquired more garments than they disposed of, reflecting accumulation dynamics, while men typically maintained or reduced their wardrobe size. Using Shove et al’s (2007) framework on having and doing, the analysis identifies four modes in the wardrobe that impact acquisition and disposal: balance, missing materials, unrealised practices and excessive having. These modes illustrate how clothing accumulation results not from irrational overconsumption but from responses to the challenges of aligning materials in the wardrobe with being dressed for occasions in everyday life. Understanding gender as a social practice, the findings demonstrate how the ongoing work of doing gender shapes clothing accumulation dynamics. Performing femininity has material consequences – more extensive wardrobes, more acquisitions and difficulties in disposal – linking gender performance to excessive consumption. By employing a practice-oriented perspective, this study offers a critical lens for feminist critique of sustainability approaches in the context of clothing consumption.

Keywords: clothing accumulation; social practices; gender; occasions; wardrobe study

DOI: https://doi.org/10.1332/27528499Y2026D000000070

Repairability of clothing and textiles: Consumer practices and policy implications

Authors: Anna Schytte Sigaard and Kirsi Laitala

Abstract

Extending product lifetimes through repair is a central strategy in sustainable consumption and circular economy initiatives. This article examines how consumers evaluate textile damages and potential to repair, drawing on wardrobe interviews with 28 Norwegian households. Over a six-month period, we tracked 3211 clothing and household textile items going out of use, of which only 107 (3.3 per cent) had been repaired or altered prior to disposal, almost exclusively as home repairs. Based on participant evaluations, we developed a three-level repair scale that reflects perceived repair complexity and feasibility. This scale, combined with item-level damage data, reveals both practical and conceptual challenges in promoting textile repair. Repairability in textiles is more complex than in other product groups, such as electronics, because many common damages fall outside the scope of conventional repair schemes. We argue for a practice-based understanding of repairability that accounts for the interaction between damage types, consumer competences, cultural meanings and systems of provision. Our policy recommendations highlight the need to go beyond product design and service provision to also support social learning, cultural normalization and the integration of repair into everyday life, recognizing its social and cultural significance as essential for effectively extending clothing lifespans.

Click here to read the article in full (intellectdiscover.com)

Avoiding synthetic fibres by choice: Strategies employed by businesses and their policy recommendations

Authors: Irene Maldini, Ingun Grimstad Klepp and Kate Fletcher

Abstract

Clothing and textiles are increasingly made of synthetic (fossils-based) fibres, enabling rapid growth in overall production volumes in this sector, with significant environmental impact. This research aims at understanding the strategies of companies that are actively working to confront this trend by trying to avoid or reduce synthetic content in their products. Fifteen companies are interviewed to gather their strategies in resisting synthetic fibres. These include four companies born with a plastic-free mindset, five companies that define themselves as a wool or cotton company despite using other materials, and six companies that aim at reducing synthetic use as part of a broader approach to sustainability and the quality of the products offered. The study analyses the barriers and enablers that affect their endeavours and proposes a series of policy recommendations to counter current developments. Barriers experienced by companies include synthetics’ low price, their physical characteristics enabling elasticity, durability and impermeability, the narrative of plastic recycling as a questionable sustainable solution, the bias of sustainability indicators and production technologies, and specific fashion trends calling for the material characteristics mentioned above. Some enablers mentioned are concerns from the company leadership about the growth of synthetics and associated microplastic release, the role of public policy and procurement in driving the change, resistance to synthetics by users in specific products (e.g. childrenswear), efforts to produce with the company’s own recycled materials, and to achieve a more intensive use of their products. The study concludes with policy recommendations such as stopping subsidizing petrochemicals, sanctioning overproduction practices, promoting true pricing and discriminating tax rates, improving sustainability metrics, targeted R&D support for natural and local materials and a fibre-to-fibre focus for recycling policy, so that the overall volume of textile production and the content of synthetics in it can be reduced.

Click here to read the article in full (intellectdiscover.com)

Textile waste as an environmental challenge – A Knowledge Base for What Now? The Change Lab (Hva nå? Endringslaben)

Forfatter: Kirsi Laitala,

Sammendrag

Rapporten diskuterer de betydelige miljøutfordringene knyttet til tekstilavfall og gir en kunnskapsbase for den norske læringsplattformen Hva nå? Endringslaben, som har som mål å styrke barn og unges kunnskap, engasjement og handlingskompetanse innen bærekraft. Den fremhever den økende tekstilproduksjonen samt den tilsvarende økningen i tekstilavfall, med omtrent 92 millioner tonn som kastes globalt hvert år. Dokumentet understreker de miljømessige konsekvensene av dette avfallet, inkludert forurensning, ressursutarming og virkninger på klimaendringer. I tillegg skisserer rapporten behovet for forbedrede reguleringer, nye forretningspraksiser og endringer i forbrukeratferd for å dempe disse utfordringene, og oppfordrer til utdanningsinitiativer som Endringslaben for å inspirere unge generasjoner til å ta mer bærekraftige valg.

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‘Creating’ variety without waste: Pre-industrial dress practices as inspiration for updating the sustainability discourse

Authors: Ingun Grimstad Klepp, Bjørn Sverre Hol Haugen, Marie Ulväng, Pernilla Rasmussen, Ingrid Haugsrud

This study explores how ideas of variety were created and practised among women and men of different social strata in Norway and Sweden before the big changes in the second half of the nineteenth century. Three researchers with in-depth knowledge of clothing during that period look at their material through questions they developed based on current clothing and sustainability discourse. The material consists of both written (diaries, inventories, etc.) and oral sources and clothes. We look at acquisition and use of clothes in the period of 1780–1850 to understand how variety was achieved to discuss whether historical research can inform today’s debate on clothing and the environment. Despite strong limitations in terms of regulations for trade, strict dressing codes, expensive textiles and a restricted economy, variety was achieved. An important prerequisite was that the fabrics themselves were seen as valuable and durable, while the shape, trimmings, accessories and the like could be varied. Buying new ready-made clothes was not yet an option. Access to clothes and accessories was an intricate web involving both caring, sharing (lending, renting, inheritance and shared access) and alterations done by amateurs and professionals. The wardrobe was a well-planned system with movement between occasions and over time, consisting of clothes with different functions and temporalities. The present debate with an emphasis on circular economy solutions and the industry as the main stakeholder overlook clothing as a complex cultural and historical phenomenon. Variety in clothes can be achieved in much less resource-intensive ways by focusing on more valuable fabrics.

Reference

Klepp, Ingun Grimstad ; Haugen, Bjørn Sverre Hol; Ulväng, Marie; Rasmussen, Pernilla; Haugsrud, Ingrid (2024). ‘Creating’ variety without waste: Pre-industrial dress practices as inspiration for updating the sustainability discourse. Clothing Cultures. Vol. 11.
https://doi.org/10.1386/cc_00088_1

Understanding garment durability through local lenses: a participatory study with communities across the globe

Authors: Hester Vanacker, Andrée-Anne Lemieux, Kirsi Laitala, Michelle Dindi, Sophie Bonnier & Samir Lamouri.

Abstract

The overproduction of garments, often of low quality, contributes significantly to environmental degradation, especially in the Global South. Therefore, assessing the durability of garments has attracted the attention of industry organizations and legislators. Recent research has identified both intrinsic and extrinsic dimensions of durability and their links to a circular transition. This study aims to deepen the understanding of garment durability by incorporating the local perspectives of five different global communities. Using a participatory action research methodology, semi-structured interviews were conducted with stakeholders across value chains in France, Ghana, Indonesia, Norway, and South Africa. The key findings of this study have been grouped into 8 trends that characterize garment durability: (1) quality is preferred over durability, (2) garment durability is dynamic, (3) price and brand are related to perceived durability, (4) local refers to geographical proximity, (5) local involves value creation, (6) local touches tradition, (7) traditional garments and textiles are more durable, and (8) local contexts influence garment durability. These trends indicate that local factors significantly influence the definition and practice of durability, suggesting that global legislation must consider such nuances when describing and quantifying durability in the context of garments and textiles.

The full article is available open access via Scientific Reports (rdcu.be)

Reference

Vanacker, H., Lemieux, A.-A., Laitala, K., Dindi, M., Bonnier, S., & Lamouri, S. (2025). Understanding garment durability through local lenses: a participatory study with communities across the globe. Scientific Reports, 15(1), 34962. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-025-19087-3

Kledd for tilhørighet: Barns bruk av klær for å skape likhet

Authors: Ingrid Haugsrud, Ingun Grimstad Klepp & Clara Julia Reich

Clothes are an important part of everyday life. Having the right clothes
for the occasion and weather is a strong norm that is crucial to fitting in. Based
on wardrobe studies with 9 12-year-old boys and girls, as well as interviews with
22 parents, we have investigated the children’s wardrobe and their efforts to appear
properly dressed in their own, peers’ and parents’ eyes. Uniforms are an alternative
to current school dress practices that both adults and children are familiar with.
Children perceive it as a way to play with other styles, or as a way to create equality.
Adults highlight the potential of school uniforms to mitigate commercial pressure.
The children emphasized the value of being similarly dressed and showed inventive
and fun ways to develop competence around creating equality. To be oneself is to
be like one’s peers. Children take active responsibility for creating equality.

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